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DORDOGNE
Like pictures from a book of fairy tales, the pretty Dordogne villages cling to their hillsides. There's a surprise at every turn of the road a glimpse of broad river perhaps, or a higgledy-piggledy roofscape.
To the north is the regional capital Périgueux, Roman in origin with medieval and cathedral quarters. Here the attractive towns of Brantôme and Bourdeilles span the River Dronne and Hautefort, with its château, offers fine views over the Périgord countryside. But it's the River Dordogne, to the south, which lends its name to this department. Rising in the Massif Central to the east, its waters twist past rocky outcrops where bastide villages cluster for defence. Domme, la Roque Gageac, Beynac-et-Cazenac and Castelnaud-la-Chapelle occupy idyllic settings while, downriver, the pretty market town of Bergerac is famous for its tobacco and sweet white wine. Beautiful Sarlat, at the heart of the valley though not on the Dordogne itself, has been well-preserved with its golden stone buildings, twisting lanes and great food market. The Dordogne's most precious treasure lies hidden from view in caves along the Vézère valley, where prehistoric hunters practised their art. At Lascaux, bison, elk and horses gallop across the walls but, sadly, for their preservation are not on public view. Visitors are admitted to a faithful replica on the same hillside. At Les Eyzies, the original cave paintings and engravings can still be seen. As well as sightseeing, this region has many activities to offer the outdoor enthusiast. There are walking and cycling trails, but perhaps the best way to explore the Dordogne is by water with canoe hire at numerous locations along the river.
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