Leger Holidays Battlefields 2012

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Do Birds Sing at Dachau? A strange title for a review and one borne of a myth that birds, sensing the evil done there, were afraid of former Nazi concentration camps. Joseph Pitchford told us his reason for doing the Hitler's Capitals tour was not to check this theory but to try and understand how a once cultured, civilised and, apparently, Christian society could be corrupted by Nazism to become complicit in the murder of so many men, women and precious little children. 1933 to 1945 is a fascinating period and whereas documentaries and books give an insight into events, nothing compares to seeing historical locations for oneself. Our itinerary was full and well planned and fellow travellers commented that we could not have seen so much travelling independently. We visited locations in and around Berlin, Munich, Nuremberg, Berchtesgaden and the Ardennes to plot the rise and fall of Hitler's Germany. Our guide was superb and enhanced each day with his knowledge and friendly style, often pointing out fascinating details, including Cold War information, that we would otherwise have missed. Dachau All Quiet... Margaret Triggs joined Leger's All Quiet on the Western Front Battlefields tour, taking in the First World War Battlefields of the Somme and Flanders, and told us all about her visit. I cannot praise this trip too highly. The weather was perfect ­ beautiful spring sunshine, blossom on the trees and birdsong. There were no traffic sounds and it was very difficult to imagine it as it would have been at the time of the Great War. Our guide was a mine of information and was able to answer most questions. On the way were an innumerable number of cemeteries and I was surprised to find so many headstones with no names. Our guide, Peter Smith, was a mine of information and was able to answer most questions. Thiepval Memorial questioningly while tenderly seeking signs of life. How that story ended is unknown but the scene is moving and encapsulates the victory of good over evil. Lasting Memories Unexpectedly, there was admiration for the way today's Germany is dealing with its painful past. There was no attempt to conceal or distort events but an emphasis on factual accounts. This spirit of openness was epitomised by the Jewish Memorial in Berlin. Views varied on its artistic merits but there was agreement that its value, unquestionably, was its location at the former black heart of Nazi Germany. A lasting memory of the Memorial is children running freely between the huge blocks, laughing and playing but not in a disrespectful way. Whether intended by the artist or not the sound of happy carefree youngsters seemed fitting. Whereas documentaries and books give an insight into events, nothing compares to seeing historical locations for oneself. Sachsenhausen Travelling in Comfort The coach was very comfortable ­ a new one I believe ­ it had a lounge area at the back, which was very comfortable, and the drivers regularly offered drinks. They were very competent in their driving skills and were always ready to have a laugh and joke, yet at the same time they were very professional. We stayed at the Hotel Alize ­ very comfortable and clean ­ in the Belgian town of Mouscron on a bed and breakfast basis. Breakfast was a good, solid meal and there were plenty of eating places in the town square in the evening. The tradesmen are obviously used to English visitors as they had menus printed in English too! Lochnagar Crater Understanding History Emotive Visits We saw two concentration camps. Sachsenhausen struck like a body blow as there was no way to prepare for it emotionally. The description of crimes there was shocking and oddly made worse by the ordinariness of, for example, the everyday tables and chairs that remained. At Dachau we saw crematoria, an extensive exhibition and cell blocks that were chilling to enter. It was uncomfortably easy to imagine the treatment of cell inmates and this led to thoughts of the men and women who perished there opposing the Nazis. It is uplifting to remember their bravery and that they are numbered, not just as victims, but amongst the ultimate victors. A lasting memory is a picture of an American soldier kneeling alongside an inmate who is face down following his collapse. The soldier's head is turned by So do birds sing at Dachau? Yes, of course they do but a better question is "Do people hear birds sing at Dachau?" The answer to that too is "Yes". Thousands of people now visit such places because they feel events there are part of their personal history as human beings. They care passionately about what happened and wish to connect with the victims in a way that is possible only by travelling to where events took place. Joseph Pitchford, Norfolk. Turn to page 27 for full details of our Hitler's Capitals tour. Dachau As my first experience with Leger, this could not have been bettered. You need comfortable shoes, the days are long in order to get everything in, and perhaps wet weather gear is advisable although, luckily, I didn't need it! (and it could always be left on the bus if not required). A Great Group It was good to meet other people who had a similar interest to myself and with whom I could discuss the day. There were people of all ages on my trip and people travelling alone as well. Everyone seemed to enjoy it and due respect was shown by all as to where we were. It was good value for money, extremely well organised and the staff were great ­ the bonus, good weather! I hope to have more holidays with Leger in the future. Margaret Triggs, North London. Turn to page 10 for full details of our All Quiet on the Western Front tour. Interesting Visits We visited a lot of places which have only ever been names to me: Ypres (now Ieper); Sanctuary Wood (where there are real trenches); the Underground Tunnels at Arras; the Lochnagar Crater; Vimy Ridge and Thiepval, among others. Upgrade to SILVER SERVICE deluxe coach travel ­ see page 8 for details 5